Tag: raw travel

Categories
Europe

France – On a Budget

My journey would take me to the south of France, on the French Riviera, in the town of Cannes about ½ hour drive from Nice. My mission was dual focused, on the one hand, I was working, attending the MIPCOM convention, a bi-annual television market where producers, distributors and networks come from all over the world to buy and sell television programming and content. My goal was to pitch the series and documentaries that I represent to domestic (U.S.) and international networks and buyers, a pretty challenging task for an independent entrepreneur.

My secondary mission was just as challenging and possibly more intriguing; I was going to travel to Cannes and Paris, two fabled & legendary travel destinations (and not exactly on many “travel experts’” lists of budget destinations), on a relatively modest budget. I am happy to report that without too much effort or discomfort, I was able to keep my spending in check and stick to a relatively modest budget. Below are a few tips that I can recommend if you’d like to taste the good life, without taking an inordinate bite out of your travel budget.

GETTING THERE:

First, I was using my frequent flyer miles on this trip but only had enough for the flight back. So on the flight over, I had to choose the cheapest airfare I could find with a reasonable schedule. I used Kayak to check different airfares and ended up booking the Russian airline Aeroflot which had the most competitive price to Nice, the main airport just outside of Cannes.

I had a brief layover in Moscow’s big Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport. Having slept very little on the nearly 10 hour plane ride from NYC to Moscow I was exhausted. Just 3 days prior I had flown red eye from LA to NYC as well, so I desperately needed some caffeine to get through the rest of my trip.

After wandering the airport for a bit, I finally found a restaurant that accepted U.S. dollars. By the time the rubles to U.S. dollar conversation had taken place, I had ordered an $8 cup of coffee. It was served just above espresso size and was likely the most expensive coffee per fluid ounce, or otherwise, I’ve ever had. These are firsts I could live without if I was going to be sticking to my budget.

TIP # 1 – Skip the Moscow beverage.

If flying to or through Moscow’s SVO airport, one of the most expensive airports in one of the world’s most expensive cities, skip the coffee or any beverage, food or other purchase for that matter. Suck it up and do without. Your wallet will thank you. The good news is that the airports in other parts of Western Europe are much more reasonable, even more so than many U.S. Airports. On the way out of Los Angeles at LAX, one of the worst airports I’ve ever seen for food selection, some dinky sandwich kiosk near my gate tried to charge me $12 for a mostly bread sandwich!

FRANCE:

Once I arrived at the Nice airport, a small and easily manageable airport, I opted out of the reportedly $60-$120 Euro (depends on time of day and your negotiation clout) taxi ride and instead purchased a bus ticket for just $17 Euros one way (about $22 U.S.). The buses are easily identifiable, run every ½ hour or so and take about the same amount of time as a taxi. The bus was packed with MIPCOM attendees but not uncomfortable and dropped us off in the center of all the action in Cannes.

TIP # 2 – Take the Bus instead of a Taxi

The bus to Cannes is a relaxed, more economical alternative to and from the Nice Airport and you will get there almost as quickly as taxi. However, if you arrive very early in the morning or very late at night, buses may not be running. In that case, be prepared to pay whatever the market will allow for a taxi unless you are able to make prior arrangements.

LODGING:

I had reserved a private, studio apartment through AIRBNB.com, a service I often utilize because I feel I often get better space for less money than a hotel. This was somewhat off season for Cannes so I had no problems securing an apartment for less than $100 U.S. per day that was literally just five minutes walking distance to the Palais, where the TV conference was held. Now if you go for the Cannes Film Festival, this may or may not be the case, so I have to believe it’s best to book early for the best deals.

TIP #3 – Research and utilize websites like AIRBNB.com, Roomorama.com and Sublet.com

Compare these and other apartment rental sites to online hotel sites to get the best price for a place to stay. Beware that by using an apartment you probably won’t have daily maid service or the benefit of asking a “front desk” for things like electric outlet converters (be sure and bring with you), wake up calls (use your phone’s alarm feature) or tips about the city (do your research before you arrive). If you want to save even more money and don’t mind a slight loss of privacy, you can rent rooms in homes or apartments.

MISTAKES: They happen to us all

Once the bus had dropped me off, I realized I’d made a rookie mistake. While I had the address and contact name and phone number for the apartment along with assurances that the apartment was just a 5 minute walk from the bus stop, I had not pre-mapped my way ahead of time or printed any maps.

I was super tired by now having been almost 24 hours without sleep and I found myself wandering around Cannes asking person after person if they knew where this tiny, apparently little known street where my apartment was located.

I kept getting conflicting information (a worldwide phenomenon I’ve found) with very nice, well-meaning folks pointing me in opposite directions. Also surprisingly, on this day, contrary to the entire rest of my trip, it seemed hardly anyone spoke English (my French consisted of a few basic phrases including the phrase “Je ne parle pas Français” which basically means “I don’t speak French”).

At this point, a taxi might have come in handy but I never got the hang of hailing a taxi in Cannes. I tried at this point but the New York City style of raising your hand and barking “Taxi!” didn’t seem to work so well in Cannes. In fact, I didn’t use a taxi my entire trip, NYC & Spain included.

A mere 45 minutes later, I found the apartment through the kind efforts of a kind young, immigrant girl from Madagascar and a Best Western Hotel front desk clerk who took pity on me and gave me a map, despite the fact that I wasn’t staying there.

TIP #4 – Map out directions to you destination beforehand

At a minimum, print a google map with your destination clearly marked so you can use it to communicate with people and get a bearing on where your apartment or hotel will be. While Cannes is not very large, especially in the tourist area, and is very walkable, when wandering around town luggage in tow exhausted from the flight (and cellular is not in service yet plus I had no idea how to use the strange looking and sounding phone booths), it can put a damper on the beginning of a trip.

Finally, by the time I found my apartment, got unpacked and all set up, it was around 8pm Cannes time (or about 12 Noon LA time which my body was still responding to). I had meetings scheduled early the next day so I wanted to get to bed early and crash for as many hours as possible since I was essentially replacing two nights of sleep with one, hopefully very long one.

Despite the fact that in Los Angeles, it was lunchtime, I felt tired enough to crash, but I was also hungry so I set off to find some cheap eats for lunch (Los Angeles) / dinner (Cannes).

On the bus I’d noticed a crowded Chinese restaurant that appeared to serve cafeteria style where diners were able to pick and choose the food like at a mall or airport dining area. I decided to check it out.

WHEN IN FRANCE, EAT CHINESE?

I like Chinese, but I don’t love it and I certainly didn’t come all the way to France to sample it, but I knew there would be plenty of opportunity to have “good” French meals in the days ahead. Did I mention I was exhausted? I opted for the quick, economical route and retraced my steps past the main street, the big Blvd. de la Ferrage and train tracks. Not surprisingly, in general, I would later find that the further I walked away from the beach, the more I saw prices for food and almost everything drop as I made my way to where more of the everyday citizens of Cannes work and live.

I’m happy to say that the Chinese food I had was some of the best I’ve ever tasted in all my travels (sadly, none to Asia just yet). So much so that I’d return a couple more times during my six day stay in Cannes. Not only was it good, it was fairly economical. I’d spend around $8 Euros (around $10 U.S.) each meal (less if I opted to only drink tap water which is perfectly safe in Cannes). The owner was a very nice and English speaking Cambodian gentleman and we chatted about politics, culture and travel each time.

Later on, to save even more money (and time), I’d eat at one of the many food kiosks set along the famous beach walk, Blvd. De La Croisette, where you could try more typical French fare like Quiche Lorraine, Crepes or a chicken, ham & cheese Baguette for less than $5 Euros while taking in the sights at the topless beach. Oops, did I just say that out loud?

I also located a small café/coffee shop that was teeming with locals that had wonderful fresh baked items including little pizzettes, crepes, baguettes, etc. that while within the tourist zone was just off the beaten path a bit down a small side street.

Hit the kiosks for inexpensive eats

Tip #5 – To eat cheaply explore outside of the tourist zone, off the beaten path streets and kiosks

It’s easy to eat cheaply in Cannes. Just head away from the tourist area to where the locals eat or for something quick and satisfying hit a kiosk for a sandwich, pizza or crepe.

Now I didn’t come all the way to Cannes to eat as cheaply or quickly as possible. I had made some time and budgeted for some pretty good sit down meals and probably my favorite was a place that a client took me called “La Salon des Independants” which is located at the top of the old town, as you head up the winding walkway to the Eglasia de Notre Dame, the old church & castle overlooking the marina in the central part of what is called “Old Town”.

La Salon des Independants is a French, Mediterranean & Spanish themed restaurant run by Andrea and Mario, a lovely Spanish couple living in Cannes. When you arrive you will be warmly greeted with a glass of champagne and a few plates of appetizers including olives, pickles, hams and some delicious pate and bread. You can literally fill up on the appetizers alone, but don’t. Next they are bringing you a shot of Vodka and offering you a choice from a list of 4 or 5 delicious main entrees.

I chose the quail my first night (I liked it so much I ate there again the next night) and it was incredible. Just before the main course (and after your champagne and vodka), they bring a bottle of Red or White wine (your choice) with your meal and top it off with a complimentary desert.

During the meal, Mario pulled out his guitar and many of the wait staff, Andrea included would take turns gathering around him to sing Flamenco or old, classic French and Spanish folk tunes, with the whole restaurant joining in. By the time the champagne, vodka and wine have had their effect, you’ll be joining in too. It’s a blast and a great way to have both a good meal and a great time on a relatively low budget. Dinner for two including all this alcohol, entertainment and gratuity (tips are included in the bill in France), 80 odd Euros (around $100 U.S.), a good deal for this kind of experience in almost any town.

La Salon des Independants

TIP #6 –Buy a local SIM Card and bring or buy a cheap, unlocked international phone

Depending on your purpose in Cannes, you may not need a cell phone, but I did. I needed to be able to communicate with people in Cannes, setting up and confirming appointments, many with people I’d never met before. So a cell phone was essential.

My iPhone 4 doesn’t work internationally but even if it did, I wouldn’t use it much. Instead, I have a spare, old blackberry that is unlocked for international use that I keep specifically for this purpose. First thing, I buy a local SIM Card, get assigned a local phone number and voila, I’m connected locally and able to make and receive phone calls at a fraction of the cost of international roaming charges. I’m also able to email the number back home in case there are emergencies and I need to be reached

For this particular trip, I stumbled into a small cellular store that specializes in iPhone cases (I’ve never seen such a wide, fun variety) appropriately named “Phone Case” located at 8, Rue Marechal Joffre, very near all the action in Cannes. The wonderfully nice ladies at Phone Case spoke some English and guided me through the setup of a Lebara phone SIM card $7.50 Euro (about $10 U.S.) which came with several minutes included and would allow me to make and receive international calls.

I ended up having problems with my old blackberry which was on its last legs so I purchased a cheap phone from Phone Case for about $40 Euros (about $50 U.S.). Had I had more time and shopped around, I probably could have gotten one for around $25 Euros but this one has slots for 2 different SIM cards at the same time. I thought this might come in handy in future travels.

Plus the kind ladies at Phone Case were like my personal cellular communications consultants and translators. Through the next week, they’d see me almost daily and patiently guide me through the process of setting up the phone in English, checking voice mail, refilling my SIM card, etc. At the end I began to feel guilty every time I walked in there but they and their resident French Poodle were as kind as could be. If you visit Cannes and need cellular service, you really should stop by and see them.

Eglasia de Notre Dame

PARIS… ON A BUDGET?

How could you go to France and not visit Paris? It wasn’t in my original agenda, which called for a Cannes to Spain back to the U.S. itinerary. I only had about 12 days total for all this travel, but I decided I wanted to check out the City of Love in person anyway so I allocated a couple of days to get my feet wet. My rationale is that I could get a taste of Paris and if I hated it, then I could say I’ve been there and never return. And if liked it, I would be back to spend more time. The verdict? Loved it!

I flew from Cannes to Paris on Easyjet, one of Europe’s ultra-cheap airlines. Beware these airlines are infamous for charging for every little extra bit of comfort. But since we’d only be in the air an hour or so, I thought “how bad could it be?” and I was right.

I did my research ahead of time and calculated the cost of airfare plus checking my carry on (you can only have 1 carry on via Easyjet and this includes what is traditionally considered a personal item such as purse, backpack or laptop) and it was still very cheap to fly one way from Nice to Paris. Since I was pressed for time in Paris, train or bus was not really an option in this instance.

TIP #7 – Check the European budget airlines directly

The ultra-cheap European airlines that fly within the Eurozone are not typically listed on popular websites like Kayak or other airfare aggregators. A partial list of budget European airlines includes the aforementioned Easyjet, Vueling and Ryan Air.

Google “Discount European Airlines” for more options. Be sure to read the fine print and to check in online (one airline charges $10 extra Euros just for printing your boarding pass), pay to check your baggage on online, etc., etc. These “hidden” fees are how these small airlines make their money so you have to try and outfox them. To me this is bad business, almost tricking people into spending money, but when in Rome..or Paris, bla, bla… To keep my dignity in check, I try to look at the whole thing like a game where I don’t want to get penalized for my ignorance. Travel cheaply without any extra penalties on your trip and congratulations, you win the game!

TIP #8 – Pack as light as possible

This advice goes for almost any trip but especially in Western Europe. I’ve learned through my travels the value of packing light. Not only is it easier on you when you are on the move, it’s much less expensive. While it didn’t save me with baggage fees on Easyjet, I did save money on other airlines while flying within the U.S. (i.e. I flew from Los Angeles to New York City on Virgin America and was able to carry on).

Also, just as importantly, it saves you money by giving you the option of taking buses and trains instead of expensive taxis. In some areas, taxis are so inexpensive (Southeast Asia, Latin America, etc.) that it doesn’t make sense not to take them. However, this is not the case in Western Europe and in parts of the U.S. (JFK to NYC is +$60 U.S. now). By packing light you have the option of things like taking Airtrain then subway from JFK to NYC, which brings us to our next tip for saving money while visiting Paris.

TIP #9 – Fly into Orly airport and take the Orlybus or Orlytrain

Orly is the smaller, more manageable airport in Paris and where many of the discount airlines fly. It also is the airport with direct connections to OrlyVal / Orly Train or Orlybus (though both airports offer good mass transit options). Either the OrlyTrain or the OrlyBus are simple to use and will drop you off close to a metro stop which can almost always get you close to your destination. I recommend once again, downloading a bus or train map from the internet and mapping out your route before you go. Even if you have to hail a cab from your closest metro stop, your fare will be a fraction of the price of using taxi service to and from the airport.

TIP # 10 – Learn a few basic French phrases before you go

I’ve had enough of the stereotype of the snooty French who don’t like Americans. I’m kicking that to the curb from now on. Though I’m sure, like most stereotypes, it’s based on some kernel of truth, in over a week in France, I never, not even once experienced this attitude.

That said, I will tell you that I think it pays to learn a few basic phrases before you go. The French, like any proud citizenry, like to see that you are making an effort to learn and appreciate their culture and not just using them by rudely asking for directions or help right off the bat.
It helps if you say things like “Bonjour” (good day), “Bonsoir” (good afternoon), “s’il vous plait” (please) and “merci” (thank you). Also, you might ask them politely “Parlez-vous anglais?” (Do you speak English?) prior to conversing with them in English.

The reality is that most people in Cannes and many Parisians do speak and understand some English. Just ask nicely. I prefer to learn a few phrases and show respect for a culture than to be at the mercy of a foreign taxi driver with $ signs in his eyes at the sight of a non-French speaking foreign tourists. Learning a few French phrases will not only make you a better traveler and add to the positive emotions from the trip, it can actually, if indirectly, save you money in the process.

TIP #11 – Stay on the outskirts of the “Tourist Bubble”

I lived in New York for 14 years and I almost never went to Times Square or Midtown for meals. It was partly because it was so crowded and full of tourists and partly because I knew I was sure to overpay (as a direct result of being filled with unsuspecting tourists).

Most New Yorkers will tell you that neighborhoods like the East Village, Lower East Side or even Williamsburg or Greenpoint, Brooklyn are where many locals go to eat, drink and be merry without such high prices attached. Counting myself a traveler rather than a tourist, I always try to seek out the areas of town that are far enough away from the main tourist areas to live a bit like a local. Not only is it cheaper, it’s more fulfilling.

Just as in Cannes, I again used AIRBNB to secure a small studio apartment on the outskirts of Paris. I was still very much inside Paris (District 18 or Montmartre) and most importantly reachable by the metro (it was by the 2nd to last stop). I paid less than $65 Euros a night (about $84 U.S.) and had internet access, TV, a kitchen and washer. One thing to remember that by packing light on a long trip you will most likely need to do laundry at some point.

I was able to take the metro to see places like the Eiffel Tower but had my meals in my neighborhood and had some excellent cuisine from the local restaurants. With their authentic immigrant cuisine it was like visiting the United Nations’ cafeteria of the world with great Asian, Middle Eastern and French food. I was also able to shop at the local market and fix a meal and live like a true Parisian, something I consider a chore at home is an enjoyable travel activity abroad. Even doing laundry abroad felt like an adventure!

Yes, you can visit France on a budget

These are just a few tips for saving money while visiting France and I’m certain I’m not the first or best person to try and show how you can visit these classic France destinations on a limited budget. Of course, students and young people do it all the time by staying in hostels and traveling via Eurail throughout Europe.

But for those adults who’d like to travel without shacking up with 6-8 other strangers and would like a modicum of comfort, some of these very basic tips may come in handy.

For years I had put off traveling to parts of Western Europe because of a variety of reasons including the severe jet lag (5-8 hours ahead), false media stereotypes (the French don’t like Americans or people who don’t speak French, etc.), and money. It wasn’t that I couldn’t afford France it was that I felt spending so much money on a vacation with culture so similar to my own would somehow decrease the joy.

I was wrong on many fronts and there are several valid reasons people have been raving about France as a travel destination for decades. It’s worth the jet lag and the money. I can’t wait to get back and explore Paris more and the other wonderful towns and villages France has to offer a respectful traveler.

If you can think of other tips I haven’t included here, please email them or include them in your comment so we all can benefit from each others’ shared travel experiences.

Merci!

Categories
Press

AIM TV Announces “Raw Travel”

AIM Tell-A-Vision Group

info@aimtvgroup.com

www.RawTravel.tv

AIM TELL-A-VISION GROUP ANNOUNCES “RAW TRAVEL” TV SERIES

–  Indie Producer Announces a New Kind of Travel Series for Curious Travelers –

– AIM Tell-A-Vision® Group (AIM TV), the company that pioneered syndicated English language TV programming for U.S. born American Latinos, announced today their latest production “Raw Travel®”, a new kind of travel series showcasing the rapidly growing wave of socially and environmentally aware, independent travel.

The series incorporates eco-tourism, voluntourism (giving back) and adventure sports, with underground music and culture in a way, that is unique to television. The inspiration for the series occurred when AIM TV Founder Robert G. Rose was traveling abroad and discovered a trend among a growing number of socially conscious travelers who were striving for more authentic and rewarding experiences.

Rose collaborated on the project with his long-time production partner, Renzo Devia. The award winning duo rekindled their creative relationship and enlisted the help of other trusted associates from their many years in production to create four (4) complete, one hour episodes. The crew traveled to off the beaten path destinations which offered unique opportunities for authentic cultural, environmentally sustainable and socially aware travel experiences.

True to the title, the program illustrates the raw and, sometimes unglamorous, frustrating reality of independent travel while simultaneously showcasing how this type of travel is not only more affordable, but can spur the kind of growth and fulfillment that rewards and changes lives forever.

“Travel is the most powerful experience I know. It takes you through a wide range of emotions ranging from often irrational fear to almost always incredible fulfillment. We hope to demystify the concept of socially aware travel and, in the process, encourage people to get their passports and go meet the neighbors,” states Rose, Executive Producer and Host of the series. “Travel can spur empathy, deeper cultural understanding and personal spiritual growth. These are experiences that I believe everyone can and should have,” Rose continues.

The episodes currently produced include treks to Colombia, Argentina & Uruguay, Trinidad & Tobago and Ecuador with additional episodes slated to begin production once distribution is secured. An 8 minute video trailer can be viewed at the show’s website www.RawTravel.tv along with more information on the show, links to the blog www.RawTravelBlog.com and more.

AIM TV will be attending the upcoming NATPE convention as well as Real Screen summit to screen the series for interested networks & media outlets.

ABOUT THE AIM TELL-A-VISION GROUP

AIM TV is an independent content production and distribution company founded by media executive and entrepreneur Robert G. Rose. AIM TV aspires to produce and distribute positive, compelling content that reflects their mission of presenting Media That Matters. Visit www.AIMTVGroup.com for more information.

Categories
Peru South America

Surprisingly Lovable Lima

Lima, Peru – After living abroad in Latin America off and on for almost a year, I’ve come to expect the unexpected, both good and bad. I was not prepared, however, to fall in love with Lima, especially in the middle of their cold, damp and grey winter when the sun rarely if ever makes an appearance.

In fact, my eyes are super sensitive to sunlight so when out doors I almost always wear my sunglasses but in two weeks while in Lima, I never once wore them .

The cold, grey Lima beach in winter

Lima, Peru is a huge city and if you are visiting Peru, chances are you are at least stopping through this city of 8 million souls. Most travelers will spend 1 or maybe 2 nights here.

If you’ve done the Machu Picchu thing, you already know that while it’s stunning it’s also a little like visiting Disneyworld, albeit more beautiful, natural and spiritual. When I was there in 2007, I couldn’t escape the feeling I was trampling on something sacred.

At the time there were almost 1 million visitors per year and geologists, archeologists and even the U.N. were calling for limiting the number of visitors for fear of doing irreparable damage. Since then, I’ve heard that some steps have been taken to limit the number of visitors to Machu Picchu.

Luckily for Peru, there is so much more to this incredible country than Cusco and Machu Picchu and that includes the capital city of Lima.

The Modern Streets of Miraflores

This was my first time to spend a significant amount of time in Lima, so I wanted to live as much like a local as possible. After staying a few days in a hotel, I secured a small apartment  in the somewhat upscale and modern neighborhood of Miraflores.

Miraflores is where many tourists end up and I heard English being spoken almost as much as Spanish. Normally in such circumstances, I’d flee another direction, but after so many months of basic, survival conversations in Spanish (ordering food, securing a room, etc.) I was ready for just a touch of English and yes, even some Gringo culture.

Shopping in Parque Kennedy - Miraflores

Miraflores and nearby neighborhoods like San Isidro  are so modern, clean and full of high rises, it’s easy to forget you’re in a third world country.

In Miraflores life seems to revolve around Parque Kennedy, a beautiful park dedicated to the slain U.S. President. The park is surrounded by restaurants, hotels and hostels with tourists seamlessly mixing in with the locals.

Local kids playing in Parque Kennedy

Just off Parque Kennedy is Calle Pizza (Pizza Street) which is named after the inordinate amount of pizza restaurants. It could be renamed to Calle Tout, as a lone traveler this was really the only place I felt pressured and slightly harassed to buy stuff (legal or otherwise). Overall, I’ve seen much worse in my travels abroad and most travelers can freely roam around Miraflores without too much unwanted attention.

Outside the Inca Market in Miraflores

If you want souvenirs in a hassle free environment, at night vendors come from all over to the center of the park to ply their wares. Or try the massive Inca Market, just a few blocks away.

I think the thing I welcomed most about being in Lima was the wide variety of restaurants. I probably appreciated it more after spending so much time in Medellin, Colombia, where the local cuisine is awesome but can be a little redundant after a few weeks.

Manolo's in Miraflores

Of course I sampled the ceviche and sushi, which I had been craving for months, but I also tried some pretty good Middle Eastern food, vegetarian cuisine and of course street food, which in my case was a pavo (turkey) sandwich that was cheap and out of this world good (and cheap).

I also tried a longstanding, favorite restaurant for locals and travelers alike called Manolo’s, which is pretty legendary for their over sized deli sandwiches and churros, a common South American pastry that you can get filled with chocolate, dulce (caramel) and other flavors.

Churros @ Manolo's

In addition to the wide variety of food and accommodations, Lima has a decent amount of sites and cultural activities that could keep a traveler busy for a solid week or more.

Mural at El Averno Cultural Center

In El Central, the downtown area of Lima, there is the beautiful and picturesque area of San Martin that is also a good spot to sample a bit more authentic Lima nightlife. I was able to check out the area with some local residents who took me down a couple of side streets to see the El Averno Cultural Center, an important and very colorful cultural center well known in the Lima underground scene.

Plaza San Martin in Downtown Lima

Like most downtown areas in major cities, you want to be a little careful with your belongings and follow precautions like taking taxis and trying not to wander the streets alone at night.

Also near San Martin is the famous Magic Circuit of the Water in the Parque de la Reserva, which is reportedly one of the biggest outdoor water/light shows in the world. I’m disappointed to say that as close as I was, due to time constraints, I was unable to get by there and take this in, but I hear it is the thing to do.

The Huaca Pucclana Ruins in Lima

And if you are in the mood for ruins and don’t feel like paying the exorbitant fees to assist in the trampling of Cusco and Machu Picchu, then check out the  Huaca Pucclana ruins located right in the middle of the city on the outskirts of Miraflores.

The Huaca Pucclana ruins were settled sometime around 500 AD by the Lima Indians as a temple to worship the sea. The ruins are still being excavated and archeologists are still discovering fascinating details of what life was like for the Lima Indians every year.

I’ve seen a lot of ruins over the years (including the aforementioned Machu Picchu) and let me tell you I found Huaca Pucclana to be fascinating. Tours are provided in Spanish and English and last for about 45 minutes. Admission is only 10 soles (about $3.50 U.S.) and in my opinion that was money well spent.

In addition to ruins, they also raise animals that would have been typical during the time of the Lima Indians. These include llamas, alpacas, cuy (guinea pigs) as well as a hairless Peruvian dog that the Lima Indians bred and while nothing beautiful to look at, petting him was highly addictive.

"Shout" the hairless dog

His body temperature was so warm (evidently to compensate for lack of hair) and his hide felt a little like maybe a really warm elephant might feel. He enjoys being petted so much that he barks loudly when people stop, so the guy is a little spoiled and perhaps explains what I understood his name to be “Shout”.

According to our tour guide, this breed of dog was almost extinct just a few years ago, so the Peruvian government has taken steps to save the dogs, including making them the official dog of Peru. On the day I was at the ruins, there were folkloric dancers as well.

Now if you’re an adrenaline enthusiast, then just head to the Malecon overlooking the beach area of Miraflores. There are professional Parasailers that jump off the cliffs and travelers can either watch (like me) or for around a $50 U.S. fee, take a dive with the pros. Finding the parasailers is easy, just head to the hard to miss Parque del Amor (Park of Love) statues and look up or out to sea. Chances are you’ll see one flying by.

Parque Del Amor (Park of Love)

As I said, in Lima in winter, the sun does not shine much. In fact, it can be a bit gloomy and depressing with the heavy clouds and fog on a daily basis. But maybe because I found Lima to be such an international city with restaurants, nightlife and friendly but not overbearing locals I was really glad to be there.

After so much time in Latin America, I found Lima to be a good transitional city for me to  ease the culture shock of returning back in the U.S. Overall, it’s a good city for any city slicker traveler who’d like to experience authentic culture without missing some creature comforts.

So next time you’re in Peru, be sure and allocate a couple extra days to take in the sights, sounds and tastes of Lima and if you happen to visit outside of winter bring your sunglasses. I hear you’ll need them!

 

 

 

Categories
Peru

Mancora, Peru – Not Your Average Beach Town

The beach town of Mancora, Peru is as rowdy and boisterous as nearby Vichayito was quiet and tranquil.  Mancora doesn’t have a particularly pretty beach either, but then again, people don’t flock from all over the world for the picturesque beaches (though there are plenty very nearby) .  They come for the surfing and nightlife.

Mancora... Surf Town

Here, in Mancora surrounded by desert on one side and a beach on the other, it’s easy to feel both cold and hot at the same time, at least this time of year (Peru’s winter). The sun beams down and trust me, will burn you, yet there is always a brisk, cool breeze blowing.  Indeed, after attempting to surf my 1st day here, I never got 100% warm again.

Kon Tiki - Desert on one side

 

View of beach and town on the other

I stayed at the beautiful if rustic Kon Tiki bungalows, which sits high on the hill with an incredible view of the town and beach below. To get to town and the main beach area from Kona Tiki you must walk down a twisting and turning (and if you happen to be very intoxicated or really clumsy, potentially perilous) path of steps and dirt until you get to the bottom. About a 2 minute hike down.

My bungalow @ the Kon Tiki

Once at the bottom you navigate through a narrow alley, which in the almost pitch black darkness of night, could feel intimidating for 1st time visitors, but is completely safe, as families live all along the alley.

The biggest danger was the unpredictable, small and old dog who couldn’t figure out if he liked me or hated me. Half the time he growled, barked and acted like he wanted to rip my face off and the rest of the time he seemed to forget the previous incident and completely ignored me as if I never existed.  To steady my nerves each time it was time to pass the old guy, I made a game out of it trying to predict what his response would be. Though I had a 50/50 shot of getting it right, I rarely was.  By the end of the trip I had figured out he was harmless.

Loves me? Hates Me?

Of course climbing back up the Kon Tiki is not as much fun as going down and even a seasoned runner like me was a little winded when arriving at the top, but it was good exercise. Sort of like living at the top of a 5 story walk up in New York City, without all those silly handrails to hold on to.

Besides the surf and partying, the locals here are perhaps another draw. While not aggressively friendly, they are not overly pushy either. A simple “no gracias” is all it takes for someone to stop offering to sell you something.

The path to town from the Kon Tiki

I also couldn’t sense any of that awkward tourist vs. local vibe you get in some heavily traveled areas.  The locals are laid back and very non aggressive and the tourist, which consist largely of young backpackers, hippies, surfers and the occasional older tourists from around the world, seemed for the most part respectful in return.

Fresh food in Mancora

Speaking of hippies, I discovered a lovely Vegetarian restaurant called Angela’s and it became my top stop for almost all my meals while in Mancora. They had a good vibe and killer Wi-Fi but the main draw was the food which is healthy and like most things in this town, very reasonably priced.  Their vegan sandwiches were as big as a plate and cost about $3.50. Maybe I’m making up for lost time after so many months of struggling to eat healthy in Latin America but I do believe I’d never eat meat again if I could simply take the chef/cook from Angela’s back to the U.S. with me.

Moto Taxis - Cheap way to get around

On the weekend I was there, I was approached by a trio of Argentine teen girls from Cordoba who were selling “happy cookies” to make some travel money. If you don’t know what makes cookies happy I won’t spoil the surprise. The girls seemed to be traveling with a larger group of gypsy like Argentines who were performing music, comedy, fire dancing and more for tips. A traveling motley crew of Argentine circus performers if you will. The entertainment was actually pretty good and well worth the $2 soles (about 66 cents) I provided as a tip.

Mancora was pretty much in a party mood every night of the week that I was there (Thursday-Monday) and if you’re not, well tough luck. Try though I tried I could not get away from the discos throbbing beats and incredibly annoying music (all music is annoying when you’re trying for some shuteye no?) no matter where I went. The noise traveled so well up the hill to Kon Tiki that some nights I literally felt I was in the disco. Ear plugs, especially purchased for the occasion, did little to stop the assault of cheesy electronica and reggaeton beats vibrating the walls.

Moncora's main beach

Now it may be that most of the townspeople don’t mind this assault on the senses in the middle of the night EVERY night. Maybe they’ve built up a tolerance to the noise by now or maybe they see it as a tradeoff for the tourism dollars that float Mancora’s way. But I couldn’t help but feeling the whole town of a few thousand was held hostage to a few people (maybe a hundred?) who wanted to party the night away listening to God awful music turned up to well beyond necessary volume.  Mancora’s mostly bamboo structures do a poor job of keeping noise out (or in, if you’re the disco in question) and you’d think there would be some kind of town ordinance to control the sound at least a little.

What Mancora has going for it, besides its surf and party vibe is its size. It’s big enough to offer almost anything a traveler can want… a bus station with frequent service, cheap moto taxis to get to surrounding sites (isolated beaches, thermal mud baths, etc), good restaurants, regrettably the aforementioned disco row and even a small gym where I had a decent workout.  Yet it’s small enough that if you stick around for more than a couple of days, you’re going to make friends with some locals for sure and you can get from one side of town to the next by foot.

As a result, Mancora feels really safe and what parts aren’t safe for tourist (isolated beaches on the fringes of town), the police warn you away from. They even have one poor soul who patrols that part of the beach to warn unsuspecting, wandering travelers like me away and back to my assigned beach area.

Yes, Mancora has a lot to offer but quiet and tranquility on the weekends (or possibly any time) isn’t one of them.  But if your easily bored by endless stretches of isolated beaches and crave things like fast Wi-Fi, excellent food choices and a pretty iron clad guarantee of a party going on no matter the time of year, then Mancora is your spot. Just remember to bring your earplugs!

Categories
Peru

Vichayito- Hard to spell… easy to love.

Northern Peru’s Coastal Gem!

 

My Cabana or AKA Sleeping Chamber!

Last night I fell asleep to the sound of surf in my ears without another bit of noise within earshot.  I slept almost 10 straight hours, uninterrupted. I can’t recall the last time that happened. I’m visiting the Marcilia Beach Bungalows in Vichayito on the north coast of Peru just 20 minutes by moto-taxi from the party/surf haven of Mancora and about an hour from the nearest airport, Talara, where I had hailed from.

Marcial, the owner and host, greeted me when I got out of the moto-taxi , camera in hand. He had been filming the whales jumping in the ocean amid a perfect, bright orange sunset.

Moto-taxis - a cheap alternative to walking

I remember living and working in New York City when so often it felt things were going comically wrong (i.e. late for the airport, just missed a free taxi and it started raining the moment I was leaving, etc.) and I would wonder if God wasn’t messing with me, conspiring against me. Getting some laughs at my expense perhaps? Yes, a bit self important I’ll admit, but I also admit I wasn’t thinking rationally.

I’d try to tell myself there were no coincidences and that perhaps it was my guardian angel working overtime to possibly save my life or for some other greater societal good. Maybe had I actually caught that taxi there would have been a horrible accident or maybe the flight was doomed to crash, etc. but deep down I didn’t believe that stuff.  It was just a run of bad luck and I was pissed off about it.

Well, last night, after a journey that began in Lima, Peru at noon, with me once again almost missing my flight, but eventually arriving at Marciela at the pitch perfect time, I was wondering if God was conspiring FOR me (as I’m sure he has done many a time just to have me not notice). Well this time, God, I noticed.

Lulu - Marcielas' unofficial host

I could not have arrived at a more picturesque moment and a more perfect spot. Backpack in hand, watching the whales jump at what seemed just a few hundred feet away and hardly any other souls around, I knew I was in the right place at the right time and there was for once, nowhere else, I craved to be. No other person I craved to be with. No what ifs… just a sunset, a beautiful beach, jumping whales and good energy all around.

I only booked one night at the Marcilia, once again by accident. My accommodations in Mancora had been booked up for my first evening so I needed another cheap spot to spend the night. I had assumed that Marcilia was within walking distance of Mancora and… it is if  walking an hour one way is your idea of walking distance!

What a happy accident! The hosts, Marceil and Cecilia (hence the name Marcilia) both hail from the cruise ship industry and it shows in their hospitality. They could not have been nicer or more attentive. The food was excellent and the accommodations immaculate, especially for bamboo beach bungalows (and especially for around $15 U.S. per night).

My kind of beach... isolated!

I thought I was the only guest until a young, traveling couple from the north of England bounded up from the romantic bungalow just below mine (right on the beach) the following morning.  They had already edited together a nice little video of the whales from the evening before. They, like another British couple I had “coincidentally” met on the way from the airport were raving about their previous trip to Bolivia? Hmm.. 2 young British couples in a row raving about the same spot? Is God telling me to go to England or Bolivia? I’m confused.

Shortly after my arrival and subsequent sunset I ran on the beach for 40 or so minutes. I could have gone for much longer but my tender bare feet were getting sore from the course sand. Towards the end I was no longer jogging, I was sprinting but I swear I wasn’t even breathing hard and it was so mild and cool that there was no sweat coming out of my pores whatsoever. The stars were bright and beautiful and everywhere! I felt really strong, healthy and full of vigor.

There was not another soul around, I couldn’t help but do the “Rocky… getting stronger” dance.. and while I didn’t scream “Adrian, Adrian!” I felt like screaming “I’m free. I’m free!”  The joys of travel have never felt more tangible than this night.

Super cool, super friendly fellow travelers...

Today I head to Mancora. A totally different vibe, an actual town full of  surfers, partiers and hippies with restaurants, bars and ATM machines. That’s cool too. But if it gets too noisy or touristy or bad energy I’ll head back to Marciella’s in Vichayito in a heartbeat.

I have  a feeling I’m going to be revisiting the place many times in the years to come, either physically or in my mind for sure. Especially when God inevitably starts to mess with me again!

Categories
Colombia

Medellin’s Desfile Caballos (Horse Parade)

Each and every August,  Medellin  gets filled with tourists from all over Colombia and indeed the world as people make their way to the  famous Feria de las Flores (Flower Festival).

It’s a 10 day or so festive celebration of Medellin’s large and important flower industry that includes parades (desfiles), concerts, flower displays, contests and parties nearly every day of the festival, culminating with the incredibly colorful and grand Desfile de las Flores (Flower Parade) the last day of the festival.

Last Saturday, things got kicked off with the Desfile de Caballos (Horse Parade). Now I know that horses are very important to Paisa (people from the Antioquia region of Colombia) culture but I had no idea they were so prevalent.

Everything from packs of  mules to incredible specimens of well trained horse flesh were marching down the parade route. At times you almost got the feeling there were as many folks in the parade as watching it.

There had to be thousands upon thousands of horses and their riders making their way down the blocked off “autopista” (freeway) while thousands and thousands of spectators partied and took in the spectacle.

And not just horses, the Colombian military showed off their impressive might as well to an appreciative crowd.  While I know that not everyone feels this way, most of the people that I observed at least, seemed genuinely thankful for their military’s role in the marked reduction on violence the past decade or so in Colombia.

The parade lasted from 2 or so in the afternoon until well after sundown and the energy was entirely positive. Aside from a few well meaning folks warning me to be careful with my camera (already knew that), there were no issues other than the music was really, really loud and it was a little tough to converse without screaming your head off.

Those that could handle the rowdiness and partying a bit longer made their way over to nearby Parque Poblado and Parque Lleras which were as packed with revelers as I’ve ever seen.

Now I can only assume there were most likely jam packed until the wee hours the next morning because as for me, well, I need my beauty sleep these days and I wanted to save my strength because the Feria celebrations were just getting started.

I’ve posted a few photos here for your enjoyment but if you’d like to see them all be sure and check out the set on our FLIKR PAGE.

Stay tuned, this weekend there are even more parades so more photos and coverage to follow.

 

 

Categories
Ecuador

Guaya-killer!

Iguana Park
The Malecon at Dusk

Guayaquil has a whole different vibe than Quito but has plenty to offer a curious traveler for a couple or three days. Though many people may tell you the central part of town is dangerous, that is based largely on outdated information from the 1990s. We stayed in a lovely apartment flat cum hostel called “Casa Romero” in the central part of town that was perfect for our needs.

The Malecon or waterfront boardwalk is the area to see and it was completely redone in a very intense renovation in the year 2000.  Today it is a beautiful part of the city and a great and secure place to go walking (day or night), but especially around dusk or sundown when you’ll see families and tourists doing what they do best, enjoying life.

Tribute to the 1960s

There are restaurants, bars, cultural monuments and statues, artisan markets and on weekends and holidays usually entertainment (the night we were there a live tribute to the music of the 1960s). And perhaps most importantly lots and lots of police and security stroll around so that a traveler never should feel insecure.

The end of the Malecon leads to the beautiful Cerro Santa Ana the historical part of Barrio Las Penas. Cerro Santa Ana has over 400 winding steps that are numbered so you can track your progress.

Cerro Santa Ana

If the hike is too intense, don’t worry; the area is full of colorful restaurants, bars, souvenir shops etc., so you can take your time. On the day we were there it was packed because it was a holiday but we made it all the way to the top which has a lighthouse and church, both which afford a great view of the city and surrounding river.

View from the lighthouse in Cerro Santa Ana

Also near the central part of town is the famous Parque Bolivar which is better known as Iguana Park because it is chock full of friendly and cool iguanas that will even let you pet them (though I saw signs telling us not to, we, along with about a dozen kids, did anyway). Iguana Park is small and besides the iguanas isn’t that unlike many of the dozens of other parks we’ve visited, but it’s still one of my favorite parks in all of Latin America.

Iguana Park

Now if you have time to head outside of the center of town, I recommend Parque Historico, which is out in a newer, wealthier suburb of Guayaquil just past the airport. Parque Historico was built in a naturally occurring mangrove.

Parque Historico

It has a zoo that features the native wildlife of the area that is not to be missed. The animals aren’t really in cages as much as fenced off and contained in naturally occurring areas that make it feel like your observing them in their natural habitat. We saw monkeys, foxes, exotic birds, leopards, caymans and more. While zoos don’t really turn me on, I must admit the monkeys cracked me up with their antics. Hilarious and so human like.

The park’s namesake comes from the fact that they have a scaled down replica of what the Malecon was like during the heyday of the late 1800s and 1900s. The buildings feel pretty authentic and it seemed like a small movie set.

Actors at Parque Historico

They also have other traditional exhibits which showcase the different types of homes, complete with the culture and traditions of the 1800s including a hacienda (ranch) and a rural farm typical of the coast.

It felt pretty authentic because it comes complete with actual actors in full character. On the weekends we hear they have shows and demonstrations that add to the feeling. All in all, Parque Historico is worth the drive/taxi ride if you have the time.

Parque Historico

 

We also visited the Botanical Gardens way, way on the outskirts of town on top of a mountain. The best thing to me about the gardens was the beautiful view of the city as well as the monkey and bird exhibit.

Let’s face it plants just aren’t that exciting. The guide map promised a butterfly reserve, but we could only spot two butterflies in the whole exhibit. Maybe they escaped or were in hibernation? All in all I can’t recommend the Botanical Gardens unless you are really, really into plants.

View of downtown Guayaquil from Casa Romero

But Guayaquil, I can most certainly recommend, especially if you want to get a different flavor of Ecuador beyond Quito and the indigenous, mountainous cities and towns. It’s not as cultural as Quito or Cuenca, but there is something about the coastal vibe that you feel immediately upon arrival to Ecuador’s largest city.

Perhaps the best thing about Guayaquil is that it is just a few hours bus ride to the coastal towns of Salinas and Montenita, which is where we are headed next to wind up our trip.

 

 

 

 

Categories
Ecuador South America

Up the Devil’s Nose in Alausí, Ecuador

After a stopover for lunch in Riobamba, we arrived in the small town of Alausí, about 4 hours by bus from Baños. The bus ride from Riobamba to Alausí was made much more entertaining when I made friends with Lupe, a little 4 year old Ecuadorian girl who was fascinated by my camera. I never saw her parents but she said her father was a few rows back.

My little friend Lupe

I am still amazed by the independence little children in Ecuador seem to have. I can’t tell you how many times I saw young kids, sometimes as young as 4 or 5 walking by themselves by the side of a busy highway.  Contrast that with the U.S. where I swear I’ve seen kids the same age being pushed in strollers in Manhattan!

I didn’t complain when Lupe came up to share the ride with me. She was cute as a button and I taught her a few basic English words before she eventually got bored with me and my camera and she went over to our producer’s (Renzo) side of the bus, where she promptly fell asleep. She was still sleeping when we got off at Alausí, so I slipped a piece of candy in her little folded arms so that she’d have a sweet surprise when she woke up.  I’m such a big old softy when it comes to kids, especially cute little Ecuadorian kids. Simply the cutest.

Alausí Resident

Alausí has a big indigenous influence and despite having the famous “Nariz del Diablo” or “Devil’s Nose Train” station it didn’t seem to have a lot of tourist infrastructure to speak of.

That being said, the people were friendly and the food at the local Chifa (Chinese restaurant) across the street from our hotel was good. You can get a good sense of Alausí in about 2 hours walking around town and if the altitude isn’t kicking your butt too bad, a great view of the city can be had from the lookout with the large San Pedro monument which towers over the town.

At the San Pedro Monument Overlooking the City

We woke up early to take the 1st Devil’s Nose Train which was scheduled to depart at 8AM and arrive back in town at 10:30AM.  Since we didn’t have tickets (the ticket office was closed when we arrived the day before) , we had to wake up really early to buy our tickets at 7AM at the ticket office. Buying tickets was by far the worst part of the train trip, it took 45 minutes and we were the 2nd group of people in line. Maybe there “system was down”, but it killed any chance of us getting breakfast (and me, my much needed coffee fix) beforehand.

The Devil’s Nose Train is probably one of the most famous and infamous tourist sites in Ecuador. If you research on the web or guidebooks before you go, you’ll get an amazing amount of outdated, misinformation. This stems from the fact that the train used to depart from Riobamba for a much more grueling all day train ride and not that long ago, tourists could ride on top of the cars. Of course, this is dangerous and eventually someone died so that no longer is allowed. A round trip train ride from Alausí is only 2.5 hours and that includes a 50 minute stop in the town of Sibambe for lunch.

View from the train

As of this writing, the train currently runs from Alausí 3 times a day (8A, 11A, 1PM) Tuesday-Sundays and the cost is $20 U.S. per adult. You can buy tickets at the ticket office in Alausí or at the old train station in Riobamba before you get there. Evidently weekends and holidays are pretty packed so you’re advised to get your tickets as early as possible.

You’ll also get mixed reviews about the train ride itself, some saying it’s a tourist trap and that the views are just as great by bus. Not so. The train ride overlooks cliffs and valleys in a way no bus ever could (or that you would want) and because the speed is slower (and the ride smoother) it’s much easier to get video or photos and appreciate the beautiful surrounding landscape.

In front of the aptly named "Devil's Nose" formation

The train was built in 1901 and many people died building it and when you take the ride you understand why. The terrain is precarious. I can’t imagine the amount of manpower needed to build around the mountains at that time. At times the train is so close to the side of a mountain that if you stick your hand outside the train car, you’ll lose it.

There are two types of train cars. Buses that are retrofitted to ride on  train tracks and the kind we thankfully took, which are refurbished train cars from back in the heyday of the route when it was used for transportation and not just a diversion for tourists.

When we arrived in Sibambe we were welcomed with folkloric dancers and surprise, surprise you could buy souvenirs from the local artisans. We also toured the museum and had a light lunch before we headed back.

Folkloric dancing in Sibambe

The train ride is not that adrenaline pumping excitement you’ll get in Baños from some of the adventure sports and I admit I was disappointed we couldn’t ride on the roof, but the views are stunning nonetheless and it’s really a good way to feel like what travel was like in these parts not that long ago. If you have the time and are in the area, I wholeheartedly recommend the ride.

We hopped on a bus to Cuenca (another 4 hours) and realized when we arrived that we had left our tripod (valued at $250 U.S.) on the train.  Getting it back proved to be an adventure but Marcos the manager of the Train was so cool and eager to help us out. We wired him some fare money to put it on a bus to Cuenca and we got it back the next day. Big gracias to Jose Luis (our guide who found the tripod and turned it in) and Marcos for their help.

Below is a small video clip to give you some idea of what the train ride was like.

 

 

 

Categories
Ecuador

Gringo Blood… Ummm Good! Beautiful, Bloodsucking Baños!

Canyoning

In Baños we stayed at the eco-friendly hostel, La Casa Verde (The Green House) owned by a lovely Australian/New Zealand couple Doug & Rebecca ho live there along with their adorable 4 year old son Jonathon. It’s hard to say enough about La Casa Verde and the good work they are doing. A few years ago I might have ignorantly referred to Doug and Rebecca as tree huggers or hippies, but now, the more enlightened version of myself is thankful for what they are doing.

At a time when being “green” is more marketing term than an actual way of conducting business, La Casa Verde more than lives up to its name. Despite the higher cost, La Casa Verde was constructed with wood from a nearby tree forest (trees that are planted and harvested in controlled conditions and grow very quickly) as well as recycled materials. They grow and maintain their own organic and sustainable garden which provides much of the food for guests. By foregoing pesticides they happily allocate 10% or so for the birds and insects (call it nature’s tax) and share their bounty with their Ecuadorian neighbors.

Only reusable containers for La Casa Verde's kitchen

When they do find it necessary to purchase food in town, they insist on bringing their own reusable containers (no paper or plastic thank you) and buy in bulk. So that guests don’t have to buy plastic bottles (which are not recycled in Baños  ) of water, they provide free purified water in the kitchen. They built their own septic tank (very unusual in Latin America) and separate the black (sewage) from the grey water (shower, sink) which is reused in the organic garden. Not to mention the shower water is hot, the breakfast delicious and healthy and Rebecca makes some incredible, all natural brownies and granola bars that still has my taste buds going through withdrawals.

Indeed there is something about Baños that brings out the inner hippie in everyone. I suddenly wanted to go for a bike ride (something I probably haven’t done in over 10 years). We took the 28 KM (17 miles) or so tour of the lovely Rio Verde (Green River) via the Ruta Cascada (Cascade Route), an amazing bike route where you can view incredible waterfall after incredible waterfall throughout an ideal scenic landscape of green mountains and deep valleys.

Now we were assured (accurately as it turned out) that most of the bike route was downhill. This was important because we were each carrying some type of expensive and not so easy to balance camera equipment on our backs. You can imagine how surprised we were when we were struggling almost right off the bat to get up a never ending, ridiculously steep hill. Turns out this was no little hill but the local (and very active) Tungurahua Volcano, which is just a mere 16,000 feet in height!

Rookies!

We had misread the map and taken a very wrong turn. Finally after about 20 minutes of breathlessly walking our bikes uphill on the side of the road and erroneously thinking the plateau must be near, a kind soul in a pickup truck took pity and told us our mistake. We were able to correct course and the rest of the bike trip seemed like a breeze afterwards.

Once back on course, the bike ride was absolutely amazing, incredible or whatever cliched adjective you care to insert. But dare I say (can’t believe I’m saying this) that for me it was the highlight of the entire trip. We stopped along the way to take a basket ride over an incredible (that word again!) ravine to view one of the (I won’t say incredible) waterfalls up close and personal. The baskets are like uncovered cable cars and are more than a simple tourist draw. They are a very practical means of transport for people who live across a steep valley or on top of a mountainous terrain.

In the basket over an "incredible" ravine & waterfall

To further prove that Baños does something strange to you, I stopped to bungee jump off a bridge, something I’ve never attempted or cared to attempt before. Do you even attempt bungee jumping? You either succeed or fail right? I meant there are not many “do overs” in this “sport”.  This hit home when the guy started outfitting me with gear.

I realized no releases were being signed, no legal disclaimers were being spouted and how unofficial everything was looking and I started to get really nervous. Who is this guy and how do I know this isn’t his first day on the job? Will it be hard to get my corpse back to the U.S.? Do I want to be buried in New York, Tennessee or California? Maybe in Ecuador? Or at sea? or just throw me in the volcano? Did I remember to donate my organs? Will Social Distortion play at my funeral?

By the time I was standing on the side of the bridge ready to dive headfirst into the rocky terrain below I was in full panic mode. But I felt it impossible to back out because a small crowd had gathered to watch the scared Gringo; no doubt baited by the TV cameras recording my first ever jump (failed jumps are great for ratings I hear).

I vowed not to make a sound but am afraid I ended up screaming, if not quite like a little girl, like a scared man who was about to lose his life in a very stupid way. It was instinctual, primitive and over in a split second. And when it was over, I was swinging to and fro, slowly being lowered to the ground below and it was really no big deal. I’d easily do it again, but I might check the credentials of the personnel first.

After successfully defying death, swinging from the bridge

The bike tour was capped off by a stop at the Pailon del Diablo falls, the most miraculous and powerful falls I’ve ever seen so close up. We all got a little wet from the powerful spray and we were exhausted at this point so we bussed it back (hey, don’t judge! most people do) to La Casa Verde.

The Powerful Pailon del Diablo Falls

 

TV producers hate getting wet

Later that night we tried our luck at spotting the Tungurahua Volcano’s lava flow. We hired a taxi who took us to the top of the mountain (the very same one we had ignorantly attempted to climb on our bikes earlier in the day) to one of the volcano observations stations high, high up.

It was dark and cold and it felt eerie being this close to an active volcano that could blow at any moment. But alas it was too cloudy for observation. We gave up after about 20 minutes and went home. If we’d have hung in there all night we would have probably eventually seen something like the photo below.

The very active Volcano Tungurahua at night

The next day our outdoor adventure continued.  My producer talked me into trying a thing called Canyoning, which is really rappelling down a slick water fall. It was pretty cool. I’m not sure my instructor was old enough to drive, much less guide a clumsy beginner in a dangerous sport, but I’m alive so he guess he did ok.

To be honest the scariest part of canyoning seemed to be climbing to the top where one wrong move and your could fall on a pile of rocks and the flimsy little helmet would probably be of no use.

Canyoning
With my very young "Canyoning" instructor

Finally we took a break from all this adrenaline and took advantage of what Baños is so aptly named for; it’s naturally occurring, volcano heated thermal spring pools. There are dozens all over Baños but I soaked in the one right smack in the middle of town, the popular Banos de la Virgen. I wasn’t alone. It was a weekend and the place was packed with Ecuadorian families enjoying the cheap entertainment of the pools.

With my pale, decidedly un-suntanned body I stood out in the brown crowd as the only Gringo in the pools. Where were all the Gringo tourist I had seen in town the night before? Probably out biking, bungee jumping, rafting or cascading.

Baños is a town I thoroughly enjoyed. It was economical (taxi rides from our hotel to the center of town, $1.50 U.S.) , full of great outdoor activities and had a little nightlife as well. It was cultural with the indigenous residents mixing in with the tourist quiet naturally. There are vegetarian restaurants and spa and massage services for those who prefer a more laid back experience.

But if you go, remember to wear your mosquito repellent. I had been lulled into a false sense of “we don’t need no stinking repellent” in Quito and as a result got eaten alive for the two days I was in Baños . You could almost hear the little critters singing over and over “Gringo Blood… ummmmmm.. delicioso” as they went to town on my arms, legs and neck.

Local Banos Resident

Despite the incredible natural beauty of Baños and really all of Ecuador, it ain’t easy being green there just yet. Thanks to the efforts of many eco-conscious travelers, transplants like Doug and Rebecca at La Casa Verde and the numerous locals who obviously care about the future of Ecuador, hopefully this will begin to change over the next decade before it’s too late.

Baños, you get a big, if a bit mosquito ravaged, two thumbs up from me! Keep keeping it fun and please for God’s sake, keep it green.

Categories
Ecuador

Munching on Some Guinea Pig in Otavalo!

Today we took the 2 hour drive to the small artisan and indigenous village of Otavalo, a popular day trip from travelers from Quito. Karina, a local musician picked us up at the Folklore Hotel in Quito. We stopped along the way to shoot some b-roll of the beautiful, mountainous surroundings.

Renzo, Karina and Myself on the way to Otavalo.

Our first stop was the famous market, which is usually in full swing on Saturdays. Even though we were a day early, most of the vendors were out and selling stuff pretty aggressively and as usual, I bought things I really didn’t have room for in my bag. But this is THE spot to go to stock up on any gifts or souvenirs you care to buy when in Ecuador. If you wait until you get to the airport you will likely pay 4 or 5 times as much for the very same merchandise.

The Market in Otavalo

I purchased some typical Ecuadorian pants and a small painting and anything else that caught my fancy and I thought I could stuff into my backpack.

Local Otavalo Lady

We then headed over to Nanda Manachi where Jose Luis and his family, which comprise the Andean musical group Los Hermanos Pichamba performed a typical Andean song for us.

Here is a little video preview of their performance for you to enjoy. Check out the cute little boy (we confirmed, he is indeed a little boy) singing his heart out!

 

Jose Luis then demonstrated how some of the instruments are made and he taught us a little bit about the history and heritage of the major instruments used in Andean music. We were joined by about 30 jet lagged but very friendly Australian tourists.

After the demonstrations and the Australian Tour Group went on their way, Jose Luis’s family prepared Cuy (Guinea Pig) for lunch.. a typical Andean delicacy. Jose Luise brought it to us whole, head, little teeth and all, and looked pretty scary but after they chopped it up and removed the head, it was very edible and I must admit, yep, it tasted like chicken.

I felt a little guilty because just the previous day I had made friends with a little baby guinea pig (I named him Snowball) just the day before at the Museum Intinan at the Mitad Del Mundo (Middle of the World).  I sure hope they weren’t close relations.

With Jose Luis and our lunch.. Fried Cuy (Guinee Pig)

Some sections of the Cuy still had a little fur left on the skin and since I don’t eat skin anyway (that’s where most of the fat is on almost any animal), I gave it to our producer Renzo, who happily ate the skin, fur and all!

After all this we took a few pick up shots of Otavalo and then headed back to Quito where we caught a late bus for the 3 hour bus ride to Baños. We arrived around 1AM at our hostel La Casa Verde and proceeded to sleep like rocks. Dead tired. A good if tiresome day.